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Some might think that a crisis-riddled economy and political unrest would devastate a food scene, but in Buenos Aires, many restaurants are thriving. Sure, inflation has reached triple digits, consumer prices have doubled overnight, and the presidential victory of a far-right libertarian has caused a heightened sense of uncertainty. Yet Porteños, the people of Buenos Aires, are resilient, never losing their passion for going out to eat. That’s especially true after the arrival of the prestigious Michelin Guide, which awarded distinctions to more than 50 restaurants in late 2023.
The hype is strongest in neighborhoods emerging as gastronomic hubs, especially Chacarita and surrounding barrios like Villa Crespo and Colegiales, where chefs are consistently pushing boundaries to redefine Argentine cuisine. Though some traditionalists don’t consider a meal legitimate unless heaps of grilled meats abound, in recent years, a new generation of gastronomes have also looked beyond the parrilla (steakhouse) to focus on vegetable-centric dishes. Vermouth and wine bars, along with comfort foods from Argentina’s nostalgic past, are also popular.
In this South American metropolis, it’s common to frequent cafes, restaurants, and bars at any hour of the day. Most eat quite late compared to U.S. standards, around 9 p.m. to 11 p.m., and restaurants won’t start serving cena (dinner) until at least 8 p.m. Be aware that service can arrive at a snail’s pace, and some places only accept efectivo (cash). Prices and exchange rates for Argentine pesos are constantly changing, but most people carrying USD will find restaurants to be affordable.
Buenos Aires is a huge city with so many opportunities to eat well. No guide can be entirely comprehensive, but this well-rounded list represents the city’s emblematic foods, most popular haunts, a few hidden gems, and some hot openings.
Allie Lazar is a freelance food writer living in Buenos Aires.